Raspberry and almond tart
Raspberry tart ready for the oven
When in London I stay in a small flat just across the high street from Hampstead Heath. A remarkable green space in the centre of north London and a place that I have grown quite fond of. The surrounding villages are charming, almost country-esque and dotted with the residences of famous poets, writers and artists, who were also drawn to the area for its artistic ambience. Constable, Yeats, and one of my favourite writers, George Orwell all plied their trade in and around the heath. Orwell's blue plaque now adorns the wall of a bakery franchise, which is in ironic contrast to the foreboding nature of his literary work. The Heath itself dates back to around 960 AD and is a possible location of Boudicca's grave (probably not) and the conspiracy site for the destruction of parliament house for the Gunpowder Plotters in 1605 (maybe). It is criss-crossed with an impossible maze of unsigned posted paths, wild with nettles, huge old deciduous trees and thick blackberry canes. Popular with Londoners, particularly in the summer months, its springtime that brings out the stinging nettles, burdock and blackberries and other interesting bits and pieces. Things that we rarely encounter in Sydney and Australia.
English blackberries are good, but the strawberries are a joy. Nowhere in the world comes close to the extraordinary flavour that these little orbs possess, from the street vendors, green grocers and even the supermarkets the quality across the board is simply amazing. They are the perfume of the English summer, sweet, flavoursome and rarely watery and bland. I have no idea why this is, but I’m putting this down to the long and slow ripening season, the gradual spread of sunshine, warmth, deep rich soils and plenty of that English rain water that seems to fall all summer. Walking in to the small local grocer, Artichoke NW3, on the high street just near my flat my senses are immediately accosted by the fragrance of the new seasons strawberries. This single note becomes a symphony when joined with the delicious and delicate perfume of the French raspberries, in the little wooden boxes, local cherries, blue berries and blackberries as well as the sweet and hedonistic black figs. The late summer and autumn figs are especially plump and ripe almost bursting with sweetness.
With such a glut of fruit I love to make a classic dessert of almond or frangipane tart. The frangipane mixture of ground almonds, butter, sugar and eggs is one of the great desserts classics, of French origin, with little conjecture from the Italians. None the less this is one of my favourite desserts. Once you have the techniques of the short crust pastry and the filling perfected then the rest of the tart becomes a breeze, you can add any fruit such as peaches, apricots, berries, cherries, pears and apples.
For the pastry
250grams plain flour
100grams good cultured butter (cold)
100 grams icing sugar
1 organic free range egg
half a vanilla pod scraped out.
One quarter of finely grated lemon rind
Method
Combine all the dry ingredients with the butter and lemon rind.
Rub in with your fingers or use an electric mixer with a paddle or food processer.
Process until the mixture resembles breadcrumbs.
Add eggs and carefully mix until the pastry just comes together. Be careful not to over work as this will cause the pastry to shrink in the oven.
Form in to a disk and rest in the fridge for several hours.
Bring the pastry out and allow to slightly soften.
Roll out evenly on a floured work surface until it is around 3 to 5mm thick.
Line a 28cm fluted flan tin, trimming off the excess pastry.
Rest in the fridge or freezer for a least one hour. Blind bake at 175 degrees until just cooked.
Frangipane
200g unsalted butter
200g caster sugar
3 large free range eggs
200g almond meal
vanilla pod scraped out
30g plain flour.
Method
Cream the butter and the sugar together with the vanilla.
When pale add the beaten eggs about one egg at a time.
Fold in the almond meal and the plain flour.
Assemble
To assemble the tart, spoon the almond mixture in to the blind baked tart.
Arrange sliced figs around the outside and scatter berries in between.
Bake in a 180-degree oven until, risen and golden brown.
Serve with a little Chantilly cream.